Corals and amber in the pieces of jewelry of the Ukrainian people’s order: historical and symbolic views

Коновалова, Ольга Володимирівна (2022) Corals and amber in the pieces of jewelry of the Ukrainian people’s order: historical and symbolic views Актуальні питання гуманітарних наук: міжвузівський збірник наукових праць молодих вчених Дрогобицького державного педагогічного університету імені Івана Франка, 2 (52). pp. 67-73. ISSN 2308-4855

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The article focuses on the understudied aspects related to general existence of the pieces of coral and amber jewelry in the Ukrainian women’s order. The etymology and variable names of coral necklace in different ethnographic regions of Ukraine are described. It is found out that corals and amber have not always dominated in a set of national pieces of jewelry. According to archeological explorations, such minerals as carnelian and crystal were popular in the period of the Early Middle Ages (Cherniakhivska culture) and Kyivan Rus. The research levels, that is natural-climatic, historical-political and anthropological, made it possible to determine the ways of spreading of coral and amber, as well as find out considerable popularity of the red mineral due to folklore sources. It is established that corals became popular in the territory of Ukraine during the 17th-18th centuries, since Podillia and Halychyna regions were the parts of Ottoman Empire (1672-1699). Coral beads were taken to the Empire from Venice through sea ports, Odesa, in particular. It is emphasized that coral necklaces did not only demonstrate the wellness of the family, but also marked the age features, family status (girl/married/widow). It is also pointed out that the jewelry style had to be fit with the shift fashion and body aesthetic, in general: while artificial pieces made of colour glass were worn on the neck, natural corals decorated the breast. The mineral was treated as talisman that is confirmed by folklore texts often referring to coral necklace. As opposed to imported corals, amber was extracted from the midstream of Dnipro. While corals were popular in the people’s orders in the whole territory of Ukraine, amber necklace was preliminary common in Polissia, Midstrem Dnipro and Carpathian regions where fossil resin deposits were discovered. The value of the products depended on the colour intensity and production difficulty. A band of amber added to the quality of the necklace, but of the top quality, that depended on the wellness of the family. Therefore, the domination of two natural minerals – coral and amber – in the pieces of jewelry of the Ukrainian people’s order can be stated. Wide use of coral was due to both historical-political and aesthetic reasons, since the red colour has always had a complex symbolism in the national perception. The natural red and yellow minerals with a variety of colour tones became a sustainable part of aesthetic variations of the Ukrainian people’s order.

Item Type: Article
Uncontrolled Keywords: corals; amber; jewelry; Ukrainian women traditional dress
Subjects: Статті у наукометричних базах > Index Copernicus
Статті у журналах > Фахові (входять до переліку фахових, затверджений МОН)
Divisions: Факультет образотворчого мистецтва і дизайну > Кафедра образотворчого мистецтва
Depositing User: Анна Миколаївна Гунька
Date Deposited: 17 Oct 2022 14:34
Last Modified: 17 Oct 2022 14:34

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