Морчич, Моретто, Моренбюсте, Блекамур як прояв орієнталізму в європейському ювелірному мистецтві

Школьна, Ольга Володимирівна та Ковальчук, Остап Вікторович (2023) Морчич, Моретто, Моренбюсте, Блекамур як прояв орієнталізму в європейському ювелірному мистецтві Вісник Київського національного університету культури і мистецтв. Серія «Мистецтвознавство» (49). с. 34-47. ISSN 2410-1176

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Анотація

The aim of the article is to reveal the artistic and figurative features of the concepts of Morčićin Croatian art, Moretto in Italian, in particular Venetian, Mohrenbüste in German sculpture, and Blackamoor in the art of Great Britain as a typical for modern Europe manifestation of Orientalism in the jewellery art of the regions influenced by interactions with the Moors, representatives of the Negroid race, colonialism, and the fashion for exotic servants. Results. During the period of the end of the late Middle Ages — at the junction with the beginning of the Modern Era, the fashion for chinoiserie, japonerie, turquerie, etc. spread in Europe. The result was the appearance of the motif of a blackhead wearing a turban in the jewellery art and sculpture of certain European countries, which began to be used as a motif in the manufacture of rings, earrings, brooches, and pins.Scientific novelty. The article highlights that the origins of the fashion for the Moor's head motif in European jewellery date back to the 16th and 17th centuries and relate to the territory of modern Croatia. This type of jewellery known as Morčić was worn by both men and women (men mostly one or two earrings) initially as a charm against the Turks, and later as a jewel that attracted success. The city of Rijeka became the country’s most famous centre for jewellery with the head of the Moor, although similar traditional pieces are still made throughout Dalmatia and more widely — along the Adriatic coast, from Zagreb to Dubrovnik. Italy, with Venice as its centre, is another country where jewellery with the motif of a Moor’s head, known as Moretto, is actively manufactured. These jewellery items are designed for a wealthier consumer and are decorated with diamonds, enamels, elegant openwork, and symbols of the city, such as Doge's hats and gondola elements, etc. Similar jewellery pieces are also valued in the United Kingdom, where they are known as Blackamoor, although they are ordered either from Venetian jewellers or French fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana, Cartier, Hannah Bernhard, etc. The idea of crafting souvenirs with the image of a Moor's head, including brooches and small figurines made of black charred wood, was also adopted in Germany, where they are known as Mohrenbüste. Conclusions. Morčić, Moretto, Mohrenbüste, and Blackamoor are motifs of jewellery art and sculpture of various European countries, which adopted the trend of depicting the "head of a Moor" or "the head of a Negro" ("the head of an Arap"). At the same time, Morčić, or Mori took root in Croatia as a more democratic version of the Italian Moretto, and became a national souvenir of Croatia, made in gold or silver with enamel decoration. Such a talisman has long been worn by men and women in this country. Souvenir items ofMorčić, decorated with enamels, are also made from ceramics. These items are more akin to the German concept of Mohrenbüste. In general, Croatian Morčić and Italian Moretto, known as Blackamoor ("Moors") with the spread of fashion for exotic motifs within the trends of colonial art are collected by the English.

Тип елементу :	Стаття
Ключові слова:	Morčić; Moretto; Mohrenbüste; Blackamoor; Moor’s head; Orientalism; jewellery art; tree; Venice; Croatia; Great Britain
Типологія:	Це архівна тематика Київського університету імені Бориса Грінченка > Статті у наукометричних базах > Index Copernicus
Підрозділи:	Це архівні підрозділи Київського університету імені Бориса Грінченка > Факультет образотворчого мистецтва і дизайну > Кафедра образотворчого мистецтва
Користувач, що депонує:	Анна Миколаївна Гунька
Дата внесення:	21 Груд 2023 10:32
Останні зміни:	21 Груд 2023 10:32
URI:	https://elibrary.kubg.edu.ua/id/eprint/48035

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